A Hydrogen Generator You Can Build

November 14, 2010

updated 02-12-2014

Build Your Own Water Powered Car

Build Your Own
Hydrogen & Oxygen Generator

– That does not use brute-force electrolysis -

Run Your Car On Tap Water! *

Build a Hydrogen Powered Car

* A cannister, under the hood, containing electrodes (about 1.5 mm apart), is (almost) filled with water. The water is separated into hydrogen and oxygen, on demand, when the engine is started, and the hydrogen produced is directed into the engine through the air intake, which may or may not be mixed with gasoline, sprayed in, also. The hydrogen, a gas, explodes, completely, 100%, not just some small percentage like the liquid gasoline being sprayed in with it. If you want to continue with some gasoline, especially at startup, only use fumes. . . . See our page Run your car on vapors.

Gasoline, the liquid, does not explode in your engine, either. Liquid gasoline, or diesel, is sprayed into the engine. Of that, the small amount that vaporizes off the surface, (abt. 10-15%?) explodes with the force needed to move the pistons and turn the crankshaft. Of that small percentage which vaporizes and produces energy, 65% is wasted as heat. Additional small percentages are lost in the drive train, etc. Most of the gasoline, still a liquid, is now hot enough to vaporize, react chemically (the oxygen has been consumed, even creating carbon monoxide), cool, and go out the tail-pipe as smog: soot, – toxic air pollution – stuff that poisons us and overheats our planet. Thank you “big oil”! … If interested, read
How The Oil Co’s First Took Over
A.K.A. The Oil Age That Never Should Have Been

Run your car on vapors

A Better Hydrogen Generator

Instead of brute-force electrolysis, the traditional “sledge-hammer” approach, small, tuned, pulses are generated, like a tuning fork shatters a wine glass, with very little effort, not “free energy”, but smart, elegant, and cheap; instead of brute-force, crude, and expensive.

from Dave Lawton
“There is a very simple way to doing this WHOLE water powered system on 0.5 Amp!”

There are many people selling kits and others in business installing them:
google search: “hydrogen generator Installation services”
We don’t know enough to trust any kits:
google search: “hho generator reviews” and “hydrogen generator reviews”
The parts are cheap and these instructions have been found free. We offer these free instructions as it may be safer (certainly cheaper) to simply build your own. Keep it simple.

For most of us, the only “unfamiliar” unit is the “pulse width modulator” which generates the small electrical pulses to make the hydrolysis efficient, not the brute-force approach which takes more power than your engine will produce (enough power to go all electric).
If a p.w.m. makes it too complicated, go to our Run your car on vapors page where you can see how to do it with only a bottle and 2 hoses. (one to let air into the bottle and the other to let air (and a little vapor) out – and into the engine)

from Stanley Meyer’s project:
“The electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5 to 5 amp electrical pulse (depending on your speed and acceleration) which breaks 2(H2O) => 2H2 + O2. When the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn the key and go. When you step on the pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes, and thus more vapor to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapor on demand.”

An extract from the lecture given by Admiral Sir Anthony Griffin to the Maritime Division of the Southampton Institute, Warsash, UK, Sept. of 1993:
“Electrical power with opposite polarities is applied in pulses to the inner and outer cylinders and at a power of 10 watts, i.e. 5 volts at 2 amps. A considerable quantity of gas immediately accumulates in the top of the vessel and, within 10 seconds, reaches a pressure of about 10 pounds per square inch.” or . . . apply “very high voltage (20,000+) pulses at a particular frequency, within positively and negatively charged voltage zones, at a very low current of less than 1 milliamp. The effect is … the covalent bonds between the hydrogen and oxygen atoms are broken and the two gases separated.”

car gasoline fire
gasoline fires are very dangerous and
difficult to put out

Ronn Motors, Dennis Klein, Francisco Pacheco, Stanley Meyer, Daniel Dingel and others have all done it with their designs
see the history of Water Powered Cars

Example: Dennis Klein went 100 miles on 4 oz of water. (25 mi./oz.) We should be able to go at least 1 or 2 mi on an oz. of gasoline, don’t you think! (=128 mpg or =256mpg) We don’t because it has not been converted to a gas first. See our pages here on super carburetors. [by the way, 1 gal. = 128 fluid oz. ! . . and . . . Anyone who remembers their basic chemistry knows that 1 gallon of a liquid equates to about 1,000 gallons of it as a gas - in the gaseous state. :: 1 gal of water = around 1000 gal of hydrogen gas at normal room temp. and pressure.]

[Suggestion, just build the cannister and enough parts of the controller to generate the ultra sound frequency. Then, getting it to work, build the rest of the controller]

Daniel Dingel has run his car(s) for a number of years totally on water, also
Dennis Klein has run his car on water with and without a gasoline “supplement” — His “water mileage” was about 25 miles per ounce without any gas supplement. (3000+ mpg!) He was working with the military and the state of Tennessee.
“After Dennis was approached by auto manufactures and the US Government, the story changed.” -Charrington, May 29, 2007
“It is all over” Dennis is out of his co.. The oil monopoly has taken it over.

1935 – Inventor Henry Garrett patented a electrolytic carburetor and let a car run on tap water.

The late Henry “Dad” Garrett was a multi-talented Dallas inventor with a bent for electrical contrivances, and in 1935, he and his son, C.H. Garrett, patented and exhibited an automobile that ran on water — actually, on hydrogen after the water was broken down by electrolysis.

Dad Garrett was already famous for his work. In 1920 he set up WRR in Dallas, the world’s first municipal radio station, and was its first announcer. He was the first man to build a radio in his car, and he developed radio transmission from the car for police use. He also invented an automatic electric traffic signal, possibly the nation’s first.

On September 8, 1935, The Dallas Morning News first announced that the water-fuel concept worked — at least it worked for “several minutes,” the article reported. A few months later, Pathe’ News filmed the car driving along Garland Road with the driver stopping at White Rock Lake to fill the fuel tank with water before cruising off.

the Orion Project’s work on repeating Stanley Meyer’s success

Stanley Meyer was killed, now, May 13th 2010, the O.P. is under attack, being suppressed!
read about it!


The text, below, sent from an anonymous individual was edited slightly for better reading. The following is his/her words and drawings, which has been given into the public domain.

Everyone should rt. click on the diagrams below to view or to download or print them, and also “cut and paste” the text you want into a file and, perhaps, print that also.

Spirit of Ma’at LLC


Figure 1
Build your own hydrogen generator, water powered car fig 1

Figure 2
Build your own hydrogen generator, water powered car fig 2

Figure 3
Build your own hydrogen generator, water powered car fig 3

Figure 4
Build your own hydrogen generator, water powered car fig 4

Figure 5
click to see enlargement

Figure 6
Build your own hydrogen generator, water powered car fig 6

It is suggested you try this out to begin with on a second vehicle you own, one that you don’t need to live with everyday, until you perfect this technology.

In putting these plans into operation, you will be making use of your entire existing system except for the fuel tank and the catalytic converter.

take a look at this video generating hydrogen gas with a small amp.


a collection of youtube videos on pulse width modulators

The Plan

Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your vehicle (internal combustion engine) on tap water, using off-the-shelf components.

This is supposed to be an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into gaseous hydrogen and oxygen, and then burn these vapors in the engine, instead of gasoline.

This “minisystem” runs easily from your existing battery and electrical system, and it plugs into your carburetor [Fuel Injectors] with simple off-the-shelf fittings.

You will be installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit, a reaction chamber, a hi-pressure carb/FI fitting, and 3 gauges, and then hooking into your existing carb/FI. [Fuel Injectors]

The simplicity comes from its being an “on-demand” system requiring no fancy storage or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle, and you electrically [/sonicly] create more vapor for immediate consumption, on demand; low-high flow rate as needed, from idle to maximum power. The change is that you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the traditional petroleum-based fuel.
H2O –> H2 + O2

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How does it qualify as “free energy”?

A: If you’re paying someone for the water you use, then it is not strictly free. But it’s close enough.

Q: Is it safe?

A: It is safer than running on fossil fuel. You are no longer choking on your own emissions (health-wise). You are no longer running the extreme risk of a gasoline fire or explosion! Additionally, you will be installing a few simple safety devices, using current automotive standards.
To put it another way, Hydrogen is just as explosive as Gasoline but nothing that is left over, does any harm to the environment: When hydrogen ‘burns’ it becomes pure water!
H2 + O2 –> H2O ( Technically, 2 molecules of hydrogen + 1 molecule of oxygen –> 2 molecules of water )

Q: What kind of performance can I expect?

A: Properly adjusted, your modified vapor-only fuel system will run cooler, and at a modestly higher power level. The mileage performance expected from this design ranges from 50-300 mpg (of water), depending on your adjusting skills.

Q: Can I do the modification myself?

A: Why not? If you don’t have any mechanical skills, and you know someone with basic mechanical and/or electrical skills, you can even delegate some of the construction. If you are using a fuel-injected engine, you may have to get a mechanic’s opinion. (There will have to be an adapter inserted into the fuel-injection system, just as you would have to do if you were going to run on propane, hydrogen, or natural gas. Spirit of Ma’at Ed.)

Q: What is the environmental impact that my vehicle will have?

A: It will be producing H20 (water vapor). Hence, it will be cleaning the environment, rather than dumping nauseous toxins into it. Plus you will be helping to save our dwindling supply of atmospheric oxygen. You can also help those around you do the same thing – as long as they have no stock in oil companies to protect – and don’t threaten you.

Q: Isn’t this really a steam engine?

A: No. Really. Exceedingly high temperature and pressure are not used. This is strictly an internal-combustion engine (burning hydrogen) with residual water-vapor (remember, the engine runs cooler than it did with gasoline) in the exhaust as a by-product.

Remember This

There are a few things you should remember about gasoline:

Gasoline poisons the atmosphere and, it is very toxic and dangerous!

Gasoline versus Water

Most people are unaware that “internal combustion” is defined as “a thermo-vapor process” – as in “no liquid in the reaction.” Most of the gasoline in a standard internal combustion engine is actually consumed, (cooked, and finally, broken down) in the catalytic converter after the fuel has been not-so-burnt in the engine. Sadly, this means that most of the fuel we use in this way is used only to cool down the combustion process, a pollution-ridden and inefficient means of doing that.

How It Works

Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain the liquid level in the chamber. The electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-5A electrical pulse which breaks 2(H2O) => 2H2 + O2. When the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn the key and go. You step on the pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes, and thus more vapor to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapor on demand.

You set the idle max-flow rate to get the most efficient use of power, and you’re off to the races.

In the big picture, your energy is coming from the tap water in an open system, as the latent energy in the water is enough to power the engine and hence drive the alternator and whatever belt-driven accessories. And the alternator is efficient enough to run the various electrical loads (10 – 20 amps), including the additional low current to run this vapor reaction. No extra batteries are required.

the Stanley Meyer generator

the radio frequency = 20,000 cps

The Orion Project is trying to buy his equipment and recreate Stan’s success

there are many youtube videos on several inventors who have succeeded:

Daniel Dingel, from the Philippines

Read about and see Fox News broadcast from youtube (welding torch + car fuel): Denny Klein’s hydrogen generator and hydrogen torch – in Clearwater, Florida

read the article and patent on the Pacheco Generator


electrical pulses, not brute force electrolysis

Where normal water electrolysis requires the passage of current measured in amps, this cell achieves the same effect in milliamps. Furthermore, ordinary tap water requires the addition of an electrolyte such as sulphuric acid to aid current conduction with the standard electrolysis approach; these cells function at greatest efficiency with plain tap water.

According to the witnesses, the most startling aspect of the Meyer cell was that it remained cold, even after hours of gas production.

Meyer’s experiments, which he seems to be able to perform to order, have earned him a series of US patents granted under Section 101. The granting of a patent under this section is dependent on a successful demonstration of the invention to a Patent Review Board.

Meyer’s cell seems to have many of the attributes of an electrolytic cell except that it functions at high voltage, low current rather than the other way around. Construction is unremarkable. The electrodes — referred to as “excitors” by Meyer — are made from parallel plates of stainless steel placed in either flat or concentric arrangements. (see the washers, on the right, for the simplest method) Gas production seems to vary as the inverse of the distance between them; the patents suggest a spacing of 1.5 mm produces satisfactory results.

A witness team of independent UK scientifc observers testified that US inventor Stanley Meyer successfully decomposed ordinary tap water into constituent elements through a combination of high, pulsed voltage using an average current measured only in milliamps. Reported gas evolution was enough to sustain a hydrogen /oxygen flame which instantly melted steel. (How Denny Klein got started – see video)

“We did notice that the water at the top of the cell slowly became discolored with a pale cream and dark brown precipitate, almost certainly the effects of the chlorine in the heavily chlorinated tap water…” … “We clearly saw how increasing and decreasing the voltage is used to control gas production. We saw how gas generation ceased and then began again instantly as the voltage driving circuit was switched off and then on again.”

The use of a high voltage spike alone (1500 volts+), without the current being delivered through the liquid, will not cause the disassociation to take place. Once Stan’s unit was made to begin breakdown (which takes 6 to 8 seconds) he was able to reduce both current and voltage to miniscule proportions.

There are two primary frequencies that produce the best results. They are: 14,372 Hz and 43,430 Hz. The former is about 50% more efficient, but it seems that just about any frequency between 9 KHz and 143,762 KHz works quite well. (1) This is because the nature of the wave form ( a spike ) is rich in harmonics and one of them is bound to be close to one of the two primary frequencies.

Meyer was apparently eating dinner at a Grove City OH restaurant, when it is reported that he jumped up from the table, yelled that he’d been poisoned”, and rushed out into the parking lot, where he collapsed and died. Theives came a week later and stole the the dune buggy and all of his experimental equipment, according to his twin brother, Stephen. Stan said while he was alive, that he was threatened many times and would not sell out to Arab Oil Corp`s. The Military was going to use this technology in their tanks, jeeps, etc. He had patents on his invention and was ready for production. Only $1,500 to equip your car! See the Videos above. No gasoline, just water. Stanley said he was offered a billion dollars from an Arab to basically shelf his idea. Stan said, “No”.


OVERVIEW – Here is the suggested sequence of steps:

1. Install the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp) gauge and measure your current operating temp range (gasoline), for comparison.

2. Build and test the controller to verify the pulse output.

3. Build the reaction chamber and test it with the controller (i.e pressure out).

4. Install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings.

5. Run engine and adjust the control circuit as necessary for best performance.

6. Install stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders coated with ceramic.
[editor's note: don't bother. Given Daniel Dingel (Stanley Meyer, Dennis Klein, ...) and all the other inventors and designs out there - none of them suggest or speak of it. Besides, get it working first.
Keep it simple.]

7. Dump the now pointless catalytic converter and, if your exaust pipe is
not stainless steel already, replace it with stainless steel pipe sections.


plastic water tank with pump and level sensor.

control circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy.

reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.

3/8″ stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps.

carb / Fuel Injection vapor-pressure fitting kit. – pressure, CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp) and level gauges.

stainless steel valves.

copper mesh junction.

ceramic surface treatment for cylinders and pistons.

stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly.


drill, screwdriver and pliers

hole cutter

wire-wrap, solder-iron and clippers

digital voltmeter (DVM) and oscilloscope.




Construct as shown in the diagram. Use a section of 4″ PVC waste pipe with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. Make sure to drill-and-epoxy or tap threads thru the PVC components for all fittings. Set and control the water level in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure. Use stainless steel wires inside the chamber (fig.s 2&5) or otherwise use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside. Ensure that the epoxy perfects the seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold pressure.

The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its purpose is to hold pressure and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced literature suggests that the closer to 1 or 2 mm you get, the better. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.

Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth, and solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the screw cap. This epoxy must be waterproof and be capable of holding metal to plastic under pressure. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.


The diagrams show a simple circuit [to an electrician] to control and drive this mini-system. You are going to make a ‘square-pulse’ signal that ‘plays’ the electrodes like a tuning fork; which you can watch on an oscilloscope. The premise given by the literature is: the faster you want do go down the road, the ‘fatter’ you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber. Duty cycle will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of 90%MARK 10%SPACE (OFF/ON).

There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there are many ways to generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few. The NE555-circuit approach (see diagrams) is from the referenced patent. The output switching transistor must be rated for 1-5 amps @ 12VDC (in saturation).

Go with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood technoid or mechanic, and go get all the circuit elements from your local electronics store, such as Radio-Shack or Circuits-R-Us, including the circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box.

DigiKey has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they have no minimum order. Be sure to use a circuit board with a built-in ground plane, and to accommodate room for mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges. Mounting the reaction chamber in the engine compartment will require running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.

You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket pins and thru-hole discrete components having wire leads. Also make sure to get spec sheets on any IC you use. More details of the best circuits to use will be announced pending prototype testing. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.

Throttle Control

If you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the signal from the sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal is input to the circuit as the primary control (i.e. throttle level = pulse width = vapor rate).

If you don’t have such a signal available, you will have to rig a rotary POT (variable resistor) to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to something at the gas pedal or throttle cable running to the carb or FI. If you make the attachment at the carb/FI, be sure to use a POT that can handle the engine temp cycles. Don’t use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one rated for long life and mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy and stationary that will not fall apart when you step on the gas.

Control Range. The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapor rate, i.e. pulse-width (duty). The resistor values at the throttle signal must allow the throttle signal voltage, say 1-4 Volt swing, to drive the VAPOR RATE. You will be using this voltage swing to generate a 10% ON ‘square’ pulse. The patent implies using a ‘resonant’ pulse in the 10-250 KHz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so.

In this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the most efficient vapor conversion. You will have to get into the specs for each IC you use, to insure you connect the right pins to the right wires, to control the frequency and pulse width. You can use spare sockets to try out different discrete component values. Just keep the ones that are spec-compatible in the circuit, and get the job done.

You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter pulses) into the electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2 – 100 usec on the horizontal time-base). Your averaging DVM (digital voltmeter) will display the 90%-10% DC voltage across the output transistor (Vce or Vds or Output to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current and measure .5 – 5 amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that you got everything you wanted.

Verify your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector. Check your wiring 1 at a time and yellow line your final schematic as you go. You can best use board-mount miniature POTs for anything you want to set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a quick visual check of normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.


The diagrams also show that fittings are required to the carb/FI l. There are ready-made kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure fittings to the carburetor or fuel-injector as the case may be. You will necessarily be sealing the built-in vents and making a 1-way air-intake.

The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire’ protection for the reaction chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure without leakage. Your new ‘system’ is considered successful and properly adjusted when you get the full power range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the pressure safety valve.

CHT (or EGT)

Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp) instead of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your existing gauge is too slow for this application and will not warn you against overheating until after you have burnt something. Make sure that your engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline arrangement. VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark plug against the cylinder head (make sure it is really clean before you re-install your spark plug (as this is also an electrical ground).


Get the hydrogen working first, then, with headlines in the news, get a used aluminum block or have the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get the pistons/cylinders ceramic-treated – again, after you have successfully converted and run your new creation. You could make max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until it rusts through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit a stainless steel exhaust pipe (no catalytic converter is required). But it could be easier and cheaper to send your existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach it to the exhaust ports.


Flashback arrestors are used to keep engine backfires from igniting whatever oxy-hydrogen gas is in the lines and the booster.

Arrestors keep burning gases from blowing through the tube. The three basic types are the valve-type (which uses suddenly increased air pressure in the tube to close a one-way valve); filter-types (some use bronze wool and others use permeable stone); and water bubblers. Home-made valve-type arrestors can be a bit difficult to calibrate, so if you’re going with a valve, you’d be safer just buying one.

For more info, do a google search on “hho Flashback arrestors”



1. Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup components, e.g. tank, carb/FI, catalytic converter, unless necessary. Better to always leave an easy way to revert back to something that at least runs, just in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline setup completely intact, and switching back and forth at will, just to have a backup plan.

2. Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapor flow at idle, and maximum vapor flow at full power without blowing the pressure relief valve. In this way, you control how ‘lean’ your mixture is by the strength of the pulse (i.e. “fatness” at the optimum pulse frequency).

3. If you just don’t get enough power (at any throttle setting), it means that you need to (1) change the pulse frequency, (2) change the gap between the electrodes, (3) change the size (bigger) electrodes, or (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort). Always use an output transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the voltage and current you need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play around with it some. Isn’t that where all the Fun is anyhow?

4. If you get any engine knock our loud combustions (not compensated by adjusting the timing), it means that you need to install an additional coil in the chamber, and drive the coil with an additional pulse signal (about 19 Hz on the .1sec time base). Here, you will be slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapors burn thru out the power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to set the correct strength of this 2nd pulse signal into the coil. This is a stainless steel coil of about 1500 turns (thin wire) that you can arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT touching either electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You want no knocking at any power/throttle setting; smooth power only, but also no excess hydrogen leftover from the combustion.

5. Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your ability to mount them conveniently near the dash panel, or in the engine compartment, as the case may be. This way, you can always make the electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship. Remember that anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof, vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.

6. If you have to drill a thru-hole for wiring or plumbing thru metal, make sure to also install a grommet for protection against chafing. Always watch your chamber pressure range from IDLE (15-25 psi) – FULL POWER (30-60 psi). Set your safety-pressure relief-valve to 75 psi and make sure it’s rated for much higher.

7. Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any malfunction of the system. Your engine will last longest when it still develops FULL POWER+ at some minimum temperature that we are sure you can find, by leaning back the Royal Vapor Flow and/or by making use of the water-vapor cooling technique. Keep good mpg performance records, and periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean; save some money; clean the air; heal the planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your freedom and self-empowerment.

8. There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapor system thru a fuel injector; there may be some details you will discover on your own as working prototypes progress. For example, you may be restricted to inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapor without any water vapor, as it may rust the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem, then you will want to re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always “replacing the FI system with a Carb.”

9. If you install the water-vapor system (for lower operating temp/stress), you will want to lean the mixture (vapor/air) for minimum vapor flow rate to achieve any given throttle position (idle – max). Make sure that you get a minimum flow for IDLE and a modestly sufficient flow for MAX, that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.

10. If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the 1-5mm gap, you can always regress back to alternating plates of +/- electrodes.

11. If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can (a) add some 98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency accordingly; or (b) install some electric heating coils.

HHOi under pressure into fuel rail may be the key to running vehicles on water and air

The onboard electrolysis unit, powered by the vehicle’s battery/alternator, produces an ionized hydroxy gas [HHOi] (the hydrogen and oxygen are not separated) that is injected under pressure (30 – 60 psi) into the fuel rail, and is able to keep the engine running.

The longest Rick has kept his Jeep going like this so far has been around 2.5 hours before it died. During that time, Rick was able to rev the engine via the accelerator pedal up and down, including to 3,000 rpms. It didn’t ever backfire. Somehow the car’s computer is able to compensate for the different fuel, and increase and decrease the speed the engine runs in response to the changing pedal position, just as it would if gasoline were running the vehicle. Perhaps the variation in airflow with the varying throttle positions with the pedal changes is what regulates the engine speed in this case. Also, the Jeep computer’s knock sensor automatically adjusts the timing of the engine to handle the HHOi gas. Rick was amazed to watch his gauge show the timing change on his Jeep.

The odd thing is that the rate of hydroxy gas production was constant, and was not governed to correspond to the increase or decrease in engine load. Nor is the rate of water consumption at a rate that present physics would predict would be needed for the water to be serving as fuel. Nor is the rate of electrical consumption in producing the hydroxy gas proportional to the amount of power manifest in idling the vehicle for that long. One of the pioneer researchers in the field, George Wiseman, points out that to be practical, the Brown’s gas (HHO or hydroxy) production will need to be nominally in proportion to the load requirement.

These attributes are similar to what Freddy reported, except he allegedly was running his friend’s pickup truck under load – driving down the road, speeding up and slowing down. Rick hopes to get to that point some time this week, with the help of an associate who is flying in to help out. If they get it running well, Rick would like to drive down to where I live and show it off to me.

… the hydroxy gas that both Freddy and Rick are allegedly producing is being called “HHOi”, the “i” symbolizing “ionized.” This is a term that James Sharp coined, and which Freddy has picked up

Ionized Air as Fuel Contributor

On Saturday morning, Rick called me up to report that he tried running just straight air with an air compressor into the fuel rail on his Jeep, and that it actually idled for 2-3 minutes that way. He was wondering if whatever leftover fuel that is in the system might be enough to enable it to run that long.

Because of some other situations I know of, I postulated that it may be that the pressurized air itself could be contributing to the fuel component — with petrol in this case, and with HHOi in the above set-up.

I know of another researcher who claims that several years ago he was able to get his car to run on air alone after getting above 15 mph — that the pressure of the incoming air was enough, and there was enough energy in the air from solar power ionizing molecules in the air, and his engine had enough of a combustion efficiency to actually utilize the air as fuel under that low pressure and flow. He temporarily abandoned this effect to first pursue something not so disruptive and difficult for people to believe.

This week I got a phone call from another researcher, this one saying that he got his Papp engine running, and that the fuel source is . . . air. He doesn’t want coverage yet, but we are in process of checking out his claim, as he invited us to come see it. The reason I feel compelled to mention it here is that the Papp engine process may be similar to the effect we’re discussing here.



Daniel Dingel

He has been running his car on 100% hydrogen
(hydrogen from water) for 30 years (?!)


*Stephen Chambers ‘Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or
*Parahydrogen’ US Patent 6126794, uspto.gov
*Stanley Meyer ‘Method for the Production of a Fuel Gas’ US Patent 4936961, uspto.gov
*Creative Science & Research, ‘Fuel From Water’, fuelless.com
*Carl Cella “A Water-Fuelled Car” Nexus Magazine Oct-Nov 1996
*Peter Lindemann “Where in the World is All the Free Energy”, free-energy.cc
*George Wiseman “The Gas-Saver and HyCO Series” eagle-research.com
*C. Michael Holler “The Dromedary Newsletter” and “SuperCarb Techniques”
*Stephen Chambers “Prototype Vapor Fuel System” xogen.com

He has never tried any mixture of gas and water – he does not think it is possible. His car consumes about 1 quart (liter) per hour, he says. Conservatively 1 gal. should take you 120 to 240 miles? (30 to 60 mph) That makes water a lot better than gasoline on volume alone, not to mention price!

He is said to have converted 100 cars to run on water.

Ronn Motors, Dennis Klein, Francisco Pacheco, Stanley Meyer, Daniel Dingel and others have all done it with their designs
see our page, The history of Water Powered Cars

With Daniel’s death, it comes out that, rather than give it to the world freely, he got frustrated (?) and took a buy-out, giving his car and hho generator to a friend, Pete, to publicize after his death.
See our page on Daniel Dingel 1968
or his friend’s site at www.dinglefoundation.com/hhoblog


A.K.A. Pulse Width Modulator
- Dave Lawton


We have not checked it out beyond the home page, but the panacea-bocaf.org
web site seems to be trying also to freely provide information on how to build your own – or pay as little as possible – for a hydrogen generator.

many more videos:
UTube videos on building your own water to hydrogen generator / HHO Water Fuel


Other Options:

There, finally, seems to be some significant progress toward powering a generator with a magnet motor. This goes a long way toward reducing the amount of battery storage needed to power an electric motor/vehicle.
see A Few Magnet Motors

“During our interview the eager young inventor revealed how he had discovered his fuel system by accident; “I was messing around with a lawn-mower when I accidentally knocked a hole in its fuel tank. I put a vacuum line running from the tank straight into the carburetor inlet (he removed the carburetor). I just let it run and it kept running and running but the fuel level stayed the same. I got excited. The lawn-mower was running without a carburetor and getting tremendous efficiency.”
see Tom Ogle carb.
The Nelson Pogue carburetor caused a sell-off of oil stocks in 1936.



We cannot tell how much it will help, If Daniel Dingel‘s HHO system is easier or not, but upon his death, he instructed a friend, Pete, to post how to make his generator.
See our page: Daniel Dingel 1968
or his friend’s site at www.dinglefoundation.com/hhoblog


Keep in mind that using water for fuel is only to “buy time” till
high-density batteries as good as or better than lithium-ion can provide 300 mi/charge or better. (already available in Tesla Motors “S” model) (as good as or better than gasoline powered vehicles) When we can tap the unlimited electricity in radiant energy all around us, then little or no fossil fuels will be needed for transportation or power generation of any kind.

Electric vs. Internal Combustion

The internal combustion engine is a device that inherently tries to destroy itself: numerous explosions drive its pistons up and down to turn a shaft. A shaft rotating at 6,000 revolutions/minute produces 100 explosions every second. These explosions in turn require a massive vessel to contain them-typically a cast-iron cylinder block.

Additional systems are necessary:

1 A cooling system to keep the temperatures within a safe operating range.
2 An exhaust system to remove the heated exhaust products safely.
3 An ignition system to initiate the combustion at the right moment.
4 A fueling system to introduce the proper mixture of air and gas for combustion.
5 A lubricating system to reduce wear on high-temperature, rapidly moving parts.
6 A starting system to get the whole cycle going.
It’s complicated to keep all these systems working together. This complexity means more things can go wrong (more frequent repairs and higher repair costs).

Unfortunately, the internal combustion engine vehicle’s legacy of destruction doesn’t just stop with itself. The internal combustion engine is a variant of the generic combustion process. To light a match, you use oxygen (O2) from the air to burn a carbonbased fuel (wood or cardboard matchstick), generate carbon dioxide (CO2), emit toxic waste gases (you can see the smoke and perhaps smell the sulfur), and leave a solid waste (burnt matchstick). The volume of air around you is far greater than that consumed by the match; air currents soon dissipate the smoke and smell, and you toss the matchstick.

Today’s internal combustion engine is more evolved than ever. However, we still have a carbon-based combustion process that creates heat and pollution. Everything about the internal combustion engine is toxic, and is still one of the least-efficient mechanical devices on the planet. Unlike lighting a single match, the use of hundreds of millions (soon to be billions) of internal combustion engine vehicles threatens to destroy all life on our earth.

While an internal combustion engine has hundreds of moving parts, an electric motor only has ONE.

That’s one of the main reasons why electric cars are so efficient!


“Maintaining an electric car, according to some estimates, will cost about one-third the current cost of maintaining a gasoline-powered car. The bottom line is this: Electric cars require considerably less maintenance than gas-driven cars.”




Read about a guy today who has his car, motorcycle, riding lawmower, and generator
running on fumes: Car gets 400+ MPG

For detailed instructions on making your fuel injected vehicle extremely fuel efficient – get over 200 mpg and make your engine last a lot longer – bypassing fuel injectors (and carburetors), see our page

Run your car on vapors



153 Responses to A Hydrogen Generator You Can Build

  1. kizil on April 23, 2014 at 8:20 pm

    Hi I’m interested in making my car run on water but i can’t seem to find a reliable source do you have any? – S. Kaan Kizil

    none that we trust. Safer to follow the information here and build your own.

  2. Dennis on April 21, 2014 at 8:31 pm

    If this is available!
    I am 74 years old & was looking for someone with the experience and knowledge that I probably don’t have, for a professional installation.

    Dennis A Naanes
    Cell 1-217-721-8220

  3. victor on April 15, 2014 at 2:08 pm

    good stuff. i will check the sites you advised we googled. i need ready to install parts.
    - victor ikome

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